How to install
Get a look at the instructions
(right-click to download).
Install a coil for domestic hot water, or as many as three coils, for hydronic (water-borne) baseboard heat. Then use your stove, or your furnace, as an efficient hot water heating unit.
To install inside the firebox, a hole saw is used to drill two 1-1/8" holes for the ends of the coil (inlet and outlet). The coil can be plumbed directly to your existing hot water tank. No special holding tanks are required.
If your existing hot water tank is located higher than your stove, the hot water can circulate by natural convection. For this setup, the only additional fittings may be a one-way check valve in the line, and one temperature/pressure relief valve at the hot water tank.
If instead your hot water tank is located distant from, or below the level of, your stove, an additional relief valve should be used near where the hot water line comes from the coil, and a circulating pump should be installed along the cold water line leading to the coil.
In both cases, cold water is taken from the drain valve near the bottom of the tank, and the hot water returns through a tee at the top of the tank.
If you have plumbing questions, we recommend that your coil be installed by an experienced plumber. All pipe and fittings should be a minimum of 3/4" diameter. The examples below for domestic and hydronic installations may be used as a guide for plumbers and/or stove owners to follow.
Frequently Asked Questions
QUESTION: Do I have to re-do any of my old plumbing?
ANSWER: No, you can leave your old plumbing in place.
QUESTION: But the hot water will be stored in the (electrically-heated/gas-heated) tank I currently use?
ANSWER: Yes, and you leave the electricity turned off (or the gas turned off).
QUESTION: But my water tank has only two pipes, the cold going in, and the hot coming out. How do I connect my stove to this without modifying those pipes?
ANSWER: Your tank has a couple more places to connect pipes. This is for the path of stove-heated water (cold out ... hot in).
QUESTION: Two more places to connect pipes? Where is that?
1. The drain spigot at the bottom of the tank.
2. The pressure relief valve at the top of the tank.
QUESTION: Okay, but if I remove that valve, suppose I need a pressure relief valve!
ANSWER: You move the pressure valve to a different location, that's all.
QUESTION: Will the water remain in the stove long enough to reach the temperature I'm used to?
ANSWER: The water continuously circulates through the stove, that's how it gets just as hot.
QUESTION: What keeps the water from getting TOO hot?
ANSWER: This should not be a problem, unless your stove is a very hot-burning one (like a coal stove).
QUESTION: Okay, suppose my stove burns extremely hot?
ANSWER: There are quite a few different ways to "cool down" your hot water. One of the simplest is to install an in-line, variable speed circulating pump. The faster that the water circulates, the "cooler" it will be.
QUESTION: Is a pump required to circulate the water?
ANSWER: No. If your water tank is very nearby to, or at a higher level than, your stove, you can set up a passive circulation system (a thermosiphon). Cold water flows downhill from the bottom of the tank, and as it is heated in the stove, it rises (flows uphill) to be deposited at the top of your tank.
One example of a household hot water setup.
One example of baseboard heating for your household.